The Long Way Round

May 19, 2026Marián Podola

There is a culture in food and drink that mistakes speed for skill.

You see it in restaurant kitchens where every minute is a metric. In coffee shops where the queue is the headline. In product pages that brag about quick delivery as though the time between order and arrival is what makes a thing worth having.

We don't think about it that way at Zermatt Kaffee.

When the roastery first opened, I hauled sacks of green coffee up the hill in winter, on a bicycle, through snow. There was no faster option. Not because we were romantic about it, but because the village allows no cars and the supplier was at the bottom of the road. The constraint became a discipline. Every kilo I lifted reminded me that this was real work, with real weight, and that the result needed to deserve the effort.

The first two and a half tonnes were roasted by hand in a small drum, in a basement under a supermarket. I would roast for hours and sleep four. The work was repetitive in the way that good work is — not because there were many steps but because each step had to be paid full attention.

There is a phrase I keep coming back to: the long way round is the only way round.

Most of the techniques that produce extraordinary coffee — gentle development, careful resting, attentive cupping, conversations with producers who live a continent away — are slow on purpose. You cannot rush a green bean. You cannot rush a relationship. You cannot rush taste.

We now roast in a 12-kilogram Diedrich and the equipment has caught up with the ambition. But the philosophy hasn't moved. We still cup every batch. We still roast in small batches even when we could fill the drum. We still let coffee rest before it ships, because young coffee tastes harsh and rested coffee tastes whole. We could press faster. We don't.

Patience is not the absence of urgency. It is urgency aimed in the right place. We are urgent about quality, water, temperature, people. We are slow about speed.

This is a counter-stance, and I'm aware of it. Most of the market wants the opposite — same-day, two-day, one-click. We sit on the other side of that line, deliberately, with the door open to anyone willing to wait the right amount of time for a cup that returns the favour.

The long way round is also the only way round in cooking. A stock that boils dies. A bread that rises in twenty minutes was never bread to begin with. A coffee pulled in eighteen seconds at the wrong pressure tells you nothing about its origin.

If you drink our coffee and it tastes like more than coffee, that is the long way round in the cup. The time spent. The patience held. The decisions slowed down until the right one became obvious.

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